A. If your hot water heater is over five years old and no longer provides you with hot water or there is a telltale puddle on the floor, it is time to replace your hot water heater.
A. Age of your existing hot water heater is important, climate, amount of hot water you use, and how hard your water is. The average lifespan of a residential hot water heater is between 8 & 12 years but can be reduced through lack of maintenance and heavy use. Another factor to consider is the location of the heater in your home. All hot water heaters will eventually leak, and leaking hot water heaters can make quite a mess!
A. Be prepared to answer basic questions, like the type of hot water heater you have (gas, electric, etc), where the hot water heater is located (garage, basement, closet, etc), and the model and serial number of your existing hot water heater. We can determine the age of the hot water heater by de-coding the serial number and size up your existing equipment, and suggest the proper replacement.
A. Check to see if the pilot light is lit on gas- or oil-fired hot water heaters and if the circuit breaker has been tripped for electric hot water heaters.
A. Effective July 1, 2003, most residential gas-fired hot water heaters meet a new American National Standards Institute (ANSI) Standard so it will not ignite flammable vapors caused by spilled gasoline outside the unit. The new standard does not require you to replace existing hot water heaters but all new hot water heaters must meet the standard.
A. A relief valve usually leaks because of high pressure. This can be the result of two different problems:
The incoming water pressure from the main water line is too high.
The pressure build-up caused from thermal
expansion. When water is heated, it expands. The expanded water
pushes back through the cold water line. If there is some type
of check valve (backflow preventer or new-style water meter)
to prevent the water from backing out of your water line into
the main water supply system, you will have an expansion problem.
A. Many people have a new hot water heater installed, and they begin to see water dripping from the relief valve after using hot water. They say that their old hot water heater never did that. Usually, the reason for that is many of the old hot water heaters’ relief valves will not open due to corrosion (the relief valve is corroded shut). The cause could be due to high water pressure and/or expansion problems. Another reason is that some of the older heaters had a 175 # relief valve on them. Now, due to government regulations (plumbing codes) and manufacturer recommendations, we must put a lower PSI rated relief valve (150 #) on the new hot water heaters.
A. The dip tube is what takes the cold water to the bottom of the tank. In self-cleaning models, the dip tube is equipped with a fitting at the bottom that causes a spiraling effect on the incoming water. This dislodges the sediment off the bottom of the tank and lifts it up and out through the hot side. This will increase the tank’s efficiency and help the tank’s glass lining last longer.
A. The first hour rating (FHR) tells you the number of gallons per hour of hot water. Therms relates to the gas consumption of a hot water heater. When you’re shopping for a hot water heater, compare the energy factor on the Energy Guide label. FHR and Therms are not sufficient to calculate the energy factor. Also remember to compare hot water heaters of equal capacity and FHR.
A. On-demand tankless (or instantaneous) hot water heaters eliminate the storage tank by heating water directly when there is a call for hot water. These units are growing in popularity in the U.S. The energy consumption of these units is generally lower since standby losses from the storage tank are eliminated. Demand hot water heaters have three significant drawbacks:
Large simultaneous uses (two showers and the clothes washer, for example) may challenge their capacity, particularly in winter when the inlet water is coldest. They will not turn on unless the hot water flow is ½ - 3/4 gallon/minutes.
Retrofit installation can be very expensive.
Finally, because the efficiency tests were not developed with these designs being considered, it is not known if the "EF" accurately estimates energy consumption. If you choose a tankless unit, look for one eligible for 2006-2007 federal tax credits (EF levels).
You may have heard about tankless hot water heaters, which save energy by heating only the water you draw. Those savings can add up to some $50 per year compared with conventional heaters. But even at that rate, it will take more than 25 years for an average household to recoup the extra $1,300 or so those units cost to buy, install, and maintain.
A. Water heaters should be installed by a plumber or someone with plumbing and heating experience. The Do-It-Yourself person may be able to handle many small household jobs, but the installation of a hot water heater could create a dangerous situation if performed incorrectly. There are many local codes and safety requirements that pertain to hot water heater installation and operation; without understanding these requirements you could be breaking the law as well as endangering yourself and your family.
A. In the winter, incoming water temperature is much colder, which causes the remaining hot water in the tank to dilute much faster (the cold water coming in is what pushes the hot out to your shower). You may also have sediment build-up in your tank reducing the performance of your hot water heater.
A. In some parts of the country the plumbing code requires expansion tanks. Expansion tanks are only necessary on “closed” water systems. When the water gets heated it expands and that extra volume has to go someplace. Without an expansion tank the pressure could rise to a dangerous level in a closed system. Exploding water tanks is becoming more common. Be aware of any changes made to your water meter by your water company or a plumber that may have created a “closed” water system in your home.
A. When an expansion tank is installed the excess water enters the pre-pressurized tank. As the temperature and pressure reaches its maximum, the diaphragm flexes against an air cushion (air is compressible) to allow for increased water expansion. When the system is opened again or the water cools, the water leaves the tank and returns to the system.
